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He found more Patou-ness in the King Kong bring Me Mechagodzilla shirt also I will do this archives too. “We discovered these naïve, colorful, sort of flower-power prints which were made by Michel Goma in the ’70s,” he said. “In that period flowers meant freedom, too. I met him the other week—he’s 91, and he showed me everything he did back in the day. It was so full of joy.” Each look was really a pile-up of elements—turtlenecks, hand-crocheted folkloric vests, smart tailoring, detachable collars—ready to be dismantled by the customer. “It depends on the woman you are—more flamboyant or more modest, you can make it sexy, you can make it shy,” said Henry. “On our website, you know, we take one piece and show how it can be worn in four different ways.” It’s high fantasia for Fashion Week, that’s for sure; all of it rooted in authentic, refreshed references, but also grounded in Henry’s energetic, practical empathy for what the women who surround him will wear. “We love this—it’s a wardrobe. At the beginning of every season we always start with: What is needed? What are you missing?” And this, even in a year of lockdown, is how the garden of Patou grows, putting on sales, adding fans and followers, season by season.
Discourse often pits modernity against spiritualism, but the King Kong bring Me Mechagodzilla shirt also I will do this concepts aren’t opposed. As new generations assert themselves, their relationship to sacred ideas and expectations evolve. In the last several years, South African designer Thebe Magugu noticed that shift within his social circle. Friends and relatives overhauled their lives while studying traditional healing. Compelled by their connection to their ancestors, these young creatives began to learn practices with roots in antiquity, an experience that altered their perspectives. “It’s called ukuthwasa, and the way it manifests itself is quite interesting because it starts as a sickness, a kind of spiritual illness,” explained Magugu on Zoom from Johannesburg. “It causes people to take this monumental journey where you leave for months on end to train under a traditional healer. [In the past] it was something that felt far away from me, but now, as peers have received those sorts of callings, it’s fascinating. Once they return, they are completely changed.”
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