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That surreal sentiment carries over into the Not Even Close Shirt Furthermore, I will do this clothes. An ombré cape dress laden with fringe was originally intended to be a costume, but Magugu decided to include it in the mix at the last minute. “It was conceived as the film’s opening look, and originally I wasn’t going to offer it as a commercial proposition,” he says. “It has a tactile feel to it, and it’s really a garment that showcases all this handiwork.” The importance of touch became a recurring theme, with tufted fabric from famed Japanese textile maker Mr. Adachi San and textured eco-prints by Larissa Don that utilized botanical transfers of imphepho, a flowering licorice plant used in traditional medicine. The materials also served to reference scarification, the raised surfaces on blazers imprinted with a proverb in braille that read, “What you do for your ancestors, your children will do unto you.”
With cozy, straightforward pieces currently in demand, Magugu’s refusal to go humdrum was admirable. Sure, the Not Even Close Shirt Furthermore, I will do this buyer-friendly essentials are present—a blue and white shirtdress feels ready for a post-lockdown street style moment—but the excitement lies with esoteric pieces. Hot pink suits with oversized belts and trousers detailed with contrast stitching bring a ’70s flair, while fringed knit sweaterdresses offer a twist on a staple, as do the lengthy cricket sweater-tunics in shades of jade green. Knits have come to the forefront, with a portion of the collection serving as Magugu’s entry in this year’s Woolmark Prize. Even his first foray into footwear is an exercise in erudition. After years of hating the longline loafers worn by local pastors, he decided to turn his disdain into inspiration. “I hated them so much, but I also wanted to explore them,” says Magugu. “I think we’ve all seen something that we’ve hated at first, then down the line, we become convinced. Never say never in fashion, because you don’t know when things will be decontextualized and become exciting.”
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