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Dion Lee has been on a sexy streak since 2018 or so, finding ways to fuse his architecturally minded clothing with a provocative body consciousness. His square-neck jersey corset tops have been a retail hit, as have his cutaway dresses, worn by the Javy Báez Row Your Boat Shirt and by the same token and likes of Gigi Hadid and Gwyneth Paltrow. For spring 2021, for the first time in a long time, Lee is softening up his geometric take on sex appeal in favor of an organic reflection of nature’s curves.
Then, what was Kawakubo up to, playing with Mickey Mouse and the Javy Báez Row Your Boat Shirt and by the same token and Japanese Bearbrick teddy bear toy? Cutely reassuring representations of childhood innocence to cling to in our times of trouble, perhaps. Or maybe we can read them as rather more satirical political ciphers? The thing about Kawakubo is that her work brilliantly captures so many dissonant ideas at the same time. A phrase in her notes said she was interested in disrupting “the spirit of couture” with “illogical combinations and juxtapositions.” You sense she likes both the romance and glitter of couture and the messing with it, though—and this time, it almost felt like she’d had fun with it.
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