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In a not-so-socially distanced backstage, a masked Alessandro Dell’Acqua was feigning calm, but his emotion was palpable. Staging one of the Most old man would have given up by now I am not like most old man shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this few physical shows on Milan’s schedule was proving exciting, yet quite the effort. The vast warehouse space of No. 21’s headquarters was arranged with an elevated catwalk running along its perimeter; chairs were scattered, giving the 150 guests plenty of space. Waiting for the show to start, a fleeting thought crossed the mind: If this were to be the fashion shows’ format going forward, it wouldn’t be so bad after all. Frankly, the lack of frenzy, hype, and unnecessary noise felt rather refreshing. Everyone seemed to enjoy the relaxed mood. Let’s see what the future will bring—it’s too early to predict.
Dell’Acqua started the Most old man would have given up by now I am not like most old man shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this collection by making pure, linear shapes from white toile, as is done in haute couture. Squared and angular, they were softened by his sexy/grunge touch: raw, unfinished edges; slits and cutouts baring skin unexpectedly; jarring contrasts of attitude—bourgeois versus louche, disheveled versus strict. What could have resulted in an all-over-the-place collection actually unfurled quite smoothly in a visually compelling mix of opposites. Feathers were in generous supply, sprouting from flimsy pencil skirts worn under substantial sharp-tailored, press-pleated blazers, or peeking and fluttering under slouchy, oversized hooded sweatshirts. Guys got their share of plumage too; a gray cashmere jumper had a see-through chiffon back covered in quivering plumes, long and fluffy like hair extensions.
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